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@@notyouraveragegoldenpotato wow! That’s a ridiculous price for those. But I guess it’s just like everything else. You can buy water pump leathers from Gold N Sand that work much better but are a bit more expensive.

@@jottingtraveler553 Hi and thanks for watching. The mat is actually conveyor belt. The Gold Cube folks use it in the Gold Cube and made it very popular a few years back. There used to be many people selling it on Ebay back then and I bought it from one of those vendors. I think that Martin Prospecting is one of the few still selling it. Look for fine gold sluice mat on his website or on Ebay.

@@brianmcvicker829 hi Brian. Thanks and thanks for watching.

@@americaswildest Thank you and thanks for watching. I thought maybe this would be of some interest to some folks I do hundreds of these tests with different mats, riffles, to see how gold reacts with each type in order to find the best methods of catching that elusive gold.

@@dantyler6907 Hi and thanks for watching. Miller was a miner back in the 1800 s who developed a special table that allowed easy separation of fine gold from the rest of the sands. It was very popular and so they named it after him. It was made of a slab of Slate rock that gold would stick to but the rest of the sands would just wash off. Today we are able to build them out of lighter materials and use Chalkboard paint on the surface that gold sticks to very well.

@@chriscarley9951 Hi Chris and thanks for watching. If you go to the Gold-N-Sand website and go to the parts section, he has pump leathers made just for this purpose. A little pricy but these last forever and work beautifully.

@@account2292 thank you and thanks for watching. I have another version out that I haven’t been able to make a video of as of yet. The difference is that it has 2 bars running down the middle instead of just 1. It’s a lot more stable.

Hi and thanks for watching. I usually make mine about 10” in width and 20” in length.

@@utahavalanch Thanks for the information I have recently purchased a plastic chilling board like the one in your video I'm hoping somthing good will come if it I usually find small specks on the beach in the Black sands and I think this will be more helpful than a sluice thanks for your help in the video 👍

@@PatringtonPirateProductions Yes, a Miller Table works by far the best for the fine gold. Especially the beach sand gold.

I haven’t had the problem. It’s generally hard to get the gold to blow out unless you really turn the water pressure way up when you turn the water back on. Even then the gold will stick to the Chalkboard paint on the Miller Deck and will eventually get pushed down into the top riffle of the Silicon mat. Gold likes to stick to Silicone as well so between the Miller Deck and the Silicon mat, I have about 18” of gold flypaper that catches pretty much everything down to the finest micro gold.

Hi Stephanie and thank you. I miss them as well. Unfortunately over the past several years I have had medical problems that have prevented me from getting around so I can make my videos. Seems I get over one problem and I’m faced with another. 😢 I’m currently recovering from some heart surgery and I’m hoping it will allow me to get out and do some more videos later this summer.

Hi Peter and thanks for watching. This sluice works surprisingly well as is. That’s why this design has been around for 200 years. However you can thin Silicone down and paint the troughs and riffles and that will certainly improve the gold catch ability. If you paint the top slick plate with Rustoleum Chalkboard paint, the gold will stick to it while the other material slides off and you can quickly see if the dirt has any gold in it.

Hi Andrew, and thanks for watching. I and at least 3 others have done the tests. I haven’t been able to get my video out yet. They all come to the same conclusion. Basically big gold goes to the bottom rather quickly but when it comes to small gold, 20 or 30 mesh and smaller That is a different story. Most fine gold is lighter than most anything else in the pan and won’t sink to the bottom unless there is only a very thin layer of dirt in the pan. If you classify the dirt so all material is the same size, then you will have better success but usually the black sand will be heavier and the gold will mix in with it because it has been smashed flatter and will be lighter. That is why it’s so hard to separate the fine gold from the black sand. Hard rock university has some of the best videos on how to pan micro gold. One of the best videos demonstrating stratification is the RUclips video….. “Does gold sink in a gold pan” by Allan Dampier He also sells one of the best fine gold pans. Allan does a good job of demonstrating how gold stratifies. Also pay close attention to his method of panning. He only works a small amount of material at a time and he keeps the material moving from side to side and always under water. This side to side motion keeps the gold at the same level in the riffles. It also keeps the material fluid and allows the gold to continue to settle deeper into the riffle and let the lighter material move out of the riffle. There is no motion to try and “Throw it out of the pan” like traditional panning. Just raise the back of the pan slightly and the lighter material will float out so the gold tends to stay in the riffle. I only work with 40 mesh gold down to about 500 mesh. I use Allan’s panning technique to pan and then use Keith’s method of tapping to collect the invisible to the eye gold in one spot so you can see it to collect it. You would be surprised at how much gold you can find in the micro range.

Hi, and thanks for watching. Because it works so well and when it’s dry, it’s waterproof. It’s good stuff.

Very nice build BTW. I'm going to try that paint on my titanium miller table build.

And thank you for the information. I love woodworking even though I'm mainly a metalworker. I blame my tradesman roots as a former carpenter. I think I'll be making one of these out of wood. I just finished a CNC controller for my mill/plasma table/laser engraver/router and it would be a fun project to plane the surface perfectly flat, then use the cnc router to make the ramp and maybe some tiny drop riffles at the bottom. I have a nice block of cherry that's a bit small but would work just fine fed slow like you did.

@@LearnTheWild Myself and another RUclipsr have tried about 60 different paints and rubber type materials to try and find the best material/paint for a Miller Table and the Rustoleum Chalkboard Paint wins every time. For some reason, gold likes to stick to it but the rest of the sands do not.

@@LearnTheWild That sounds like it would be an interesting project. I’d be interested to know how it works out for you.

Thank you and thanks for stopping by and watching. The cane type I use every time I go looking for dirt to sample. It has really increased my chances of finding gold. Thanks. Having to deal with medical problems but hope to be able to put out a few more videos.

Thanks. I have tried a number of different ideas over the years and this method worked the best for me. I still use this stand although I now use 2 long bars down the center instead of the 1. I have a heavy Gold Hog Stream Sluice that I have used on this stand and it held it very well. With my wood sluices, I can screw my stand right to the sluice and the legs fold along the sides for easy transport and set up. With longer legs, I can set this up in knee deep water and drop the sluice down in just the top 1” of water to run or put short legs on it to run in shallow water.

Hi Fuat and thank you for watching. Yes, you are correct it is slow. It’s designed mostly for processing the cons from the sluice mat. I have other videos on a unit I designed I call the Miller Sluice you may like. You can sluice your material quickly and then clean out the mat and then run the cons over the Miller Deck to separate the fine gold. Two units in one. I also use it like test panning to test dirt samples from a number of different places in an area. If there is any gold in the dirt it will stick to the Miller Deck. That way you can quickly see if it’s worth running more dirt from that area and it is much quicker than test panning.

Hi and thanks for watching. I don’t recall seeing any but someone may have tried them. I think if they worked well you would see more of them. I have square riffle mats with the top edges rounded off a bit that work very well.

@@utahavalanch it gives you the round top edge and a back cut. I have a lot of 1" and smaller bamboo. I'm just throwing out a hypothisis. What if you had say a .75" dowel shape riffle, on top of a vmat or carpet, then have a smaller say 3/8 by 1/4 ridge say a half to 2 inches in front of it.... with a gap, then repeat. I'm thinking if you have the material, you could make them fit tight and run any mat under then have then wedge in tight --- to me a combination off wood that is removable over whatever mat makes sense but I have no real experience. I also have a lot of mexican palm fronds and the stems are very strong and you can cust some interesting profiles. My thinking is that having riffles have range or shpes, sizes and patterns makes sense. I'm also thinking of having something in the 4-6 foot range. The idea I am working on is to run successive sluices 2-4 maybe that get wider and less slope as they go and have smaller and smaller grizley bars. I'm also dreaming of setting something up where you could load good amounts of material and walk away. My goal is a combination of wanting to separate out useful sizes of gravel and sand from such that are mixed in with a lot of soil. The gravel was originally from the large flat roof. There is also DG under the gravel/soil mix that I may remove some or all. Have you heard of DG having gold?

@@1FeistyKittyI’m not sure how it would work right off. The thing to do would be to build a prototype like I have here with a clear side and give it a try. I do this so I can watch how the dirt and gold reacts inside the riffles. I video tape a run or two so I can watch it over and over. I have a gram of fine gold I use in about 1/2 gallon of sand that I use to test with and that way I can check the tailings to see if there are any losses and also see where in the sluice gold collects. Try building a basic sluice that can be easily modified and experiment with different ideas that you come up with. You may be surprised at how gold reacts to different designs. I don’t know about the DG gold but I do a lot of urban prospecting and I have found gold in some of the most unusual places. You’d be surprised at how much gold collects on streets, large parking lots, gutters, etc. I take a shop vac to big parking lots and roads and collect quite a bit of very fine gold.

Thanks Trevor and thanks for watching. This unit has really worked well for me over the years and it is very modifiable. I really like the catch tube but you can also use it like the standard yabby pump. You can also change out the body tube to different lengths and still use the same pump shaft and end cap. I have a 2’ tube I use for sucking out pot holes in the road and an 8’ one for reaching out into streams where it’s too deep to wade and the standard 3’ one.

Hi Neville and thanks for watching. I hope you like it. I spent years testing every design on the market and many others and this one I liked the best. I also have a video or two on my Miller Sluice that is a combination if a sluice and Miller Table that I really like as well. You build it the same as this one except with a shorter top deck. You can run any kind of mat in it to sluice the dirt and then reduce the water flow to run the cons on the Miller deck to separate the gold from the black sands and others.

@@utahavalanch - thank you for the reply. I’ll definitely take a look at your other videos. I can buy a new one for $280 but I think building one will make it more enjoyable to use. Also have to convert your measurements to centimetres but that’s not too difficult to do. Many thanks for taking the time to share your builds.

@@nevillegriffiths8681 If you decide to buy one, definitely paint the top with Rustoleum Chalkboard paint. None of the commercial units have the right material to make them work. I and another person spent much time and money testing different materials and the Chalkboard paint worked the best. I put about 3 good coats on the deck. Don’t worry about measurements as you can make it to any size you want. I have made many different sizes and they all work well. This one I made to fit the tote it’s sitting on. The one measurement that is the most important is the distance from the back wall to the edge of the top Miller deck. It should be about 3”, 7.62 cm, 76 mm. This allows the turbulence in the water to slow down and make a nice smooth flow over the Miller deck. If you have any problems/questions, feel free to ask.

@@utahavalanch - thanks for the tips mate, its much appreciated. I’ve got some holidays coming up so I’ll build one and then get some more material to test it with. I’ll let you know how we go. :)

@@nevillegriffiths8681 very best of luck👍👍

Hi Kevin and thanks for watching.. I’m sorry but due to medical problems right now I’m unable to. However, I have made a video on how to make it for those who want one. It is quite easy to make and you can build it with a minimum amount of tools.

@@utahavalanch I understand and I hope your health improves 😊

@KevinRushing63 thank you.

Hi Kevin and thanks for watching. This is considered a sluice box here in America. The use of an electric pump may make it illegal in some areas. In my area, I can’t use a pump in the stream so I used this setup on the bank to process my stream material. I have a couple of videos on drop riffle sluices that would be legal. They can be used as a recirculating sluice as well as a stream sluice. I used to carry one in my back pack when hiking in areas with streams.

Hi Feisty Kitty and thanks for watching. You put the valve after the pump. Usually about 8” to a foot from where the hose plugs into the header spray bar on the sluice.

@@utahavalanch thanks --- what's the max % you can reduce witout f-n up the pump ?

@@1FeistyKitty I have turned the valve all the way off on mine without any problems. I now use a 12 volt DC motor controller on mine to adjust the pump speed. You can buy them on Ebay for $8.00 - 15.00. The one I have has a digital readout so I can set the water flow to a certain point each time. They really work well.

@@utahavalanch thanks ---- that's a clever convertible design --- i'm taking your word on that mat - what do you think of a slab of stone for a miller table ? i have a piece of granite couter and I was looking at the surface on the back. It's flat but not polished. It seems like stone you can easily adjust the texture by either sanding or polishing. You could try different scratch patterns in different areas.

@@1FeistyKitty thank you. I have since revised that design to simply painting the bottom of the sluice with Chalkboard paint. The Miller Table is my favorite tool for prospecting. Although it’s slow, it does the best job of catching the finer gold that I work with. If you have watched my other videos, I have designed and built a number of different ones. A newer design is a combination sluice and Miller table that works very well and what I currently use. The original Miller tables were built using slate as the table top so the granite would be a good one to try. Myself and another individual spent a year testing about 100 different materials for a Miller table and we found that the Rustoleum Chalkboard Paint was the best material next to the slate to make the Miller table out of. Gold has a tendency to stick to the Chalkboard paint while the other sands tend to slide off. I use it in my newer designs to slow the gold down when going down the sluice to enable better capture.

Hi Cody and thanks for watching. Yippers, I can assure you that this is true. My grandson used to come to the house on weekends to pan or sluice my buckets of dirt I’d bring home from the river. I ran out one weekend and he said he had some he wanted to run. What you see here is that dirt. I was very surprised and grabbed a camera to record it. When he finished he told me he got it out of the gutter. I didn’t believe him and so he collected some from my gutter and from across the street and ran it. Some of this footage is from that dirt as well. I know of at least 3 other people who do Urban Prospecting in the state and get about 1 oz of gold a year. Here all construction and road dirt has to be mixed to the right proportions of rock sand and dirt. That and the rock topping on some older roads comes from crushed quartz rock which contains gold. As the roads break down, the gold and gravel gets washed to the side when it rains. You would be surprised at how much gold is in the dirt around you.

Do you think this would work in Newport News VA?? Or on the streets near mineral VA

@@Allskillzcody I think there is a very good chance it would. You can buy a cheap gold pan on Ebay and a kitchen strainer from Walmart to screen out the big rocks and give it a try. We take small quart size samples of dirt from any sources we run across and pan them out. If there is gold then we go back for more. Check any piles of dirt, dirt around drains in parking lots or along side roads, small piles wind blows up against buildings.etc. Gold is all around us. Just keep checking everything.

Thank you Abdul and thanks for watching.

Hi David and thanks for watching. I do many of these type tests and video them so I can see how gold reacts to different design changes, riffles, mats, etc. they help me build much more efficient pieces of equipment.

Hi Robert and thanks for watching. Yes, it’s a piece of conveyor belt with small pockets that catch the gold quite well.

Hi and thanks for watching. I use 2 pumps. A 264 GPH AC fountain pump from Harbor freight for home use and a 500 GPH 12 volt pump for out in the field. These will both take a 3/4” hose. You only need about 150 GPH to run this so I put a ball valve in the connecting hose to reduce the water flow down. This way I can run the pumps on my sluices as well. You can also buy a 12 volt motor controller on Ebay for around $10.00 that you can use to control the 12 volt pump.

Hi and thanks for watching. Yippers. I’ve been prospecting for over 50 years and I know what gold looks like. There are several others around here that have started doing urban prospecting as well and they collect about 1oz of gold a year doing this. The summer we made this video, my grandson collected 3/4 oz just out of the gutters in this and the surrounding neighborhoods. You would be surprised at how much gold is around you. A new guy I’ve been teaching came up with vacuuming parking lots and streets with a shop vac. Muddy cars and trucks drop very fine gold while traveling along the streets during a rain storm. The gold gets stuck in the rough surface of the streets. I was amazed at how much he collects.

@utahavalanch unfortunately I don't think there is any here in north texas but I may try anyway

@@daviddenson3324 I live in a “No Gold” state as well and in the worst area of it but still finding gold. Remember you have many cars and trucks traveling over your roads from out of state that have mud with gold stuck to the underside and when it rains it falls off and gets washed to the side of the road. Also in big parking lots. Learn how to pan fine gold and get a gold pan and give it a try. You might want to buy a cheap bag of paydirt to practice on so you know what gold looks like and get the hang of it. You never know til you try.👍

​@@utahavalanchHello Sir. This is so mesmerizing! Great video. I'm in Utah also. I'm not sure I'll ever look at Utah gutters the same! Lol I'd love to construct a Miller Table such as this. Would it be possible to get some construction plans? Thanks

@@josephsoto8294 Hi Joseph and thanks for watching. If you check out the rest of my videos, I have construction plans for this one and several others you may like. I have one I call a Miller Sluice that is both a Miller Table and a sluice all in one. It is built similar to this one so if you build one, you will know how to build the other. They are easy to build with cheap local materials. Yippers, all the gravel pits along the Wasatch front contain gold. They use this gravel to build the roads, sand the streets in the winter and the foundation for homes and other buildings. The roads wear down and the gold and gravel is washed into the gutters. Trucks get gold mud on them from construction sites and then it drops off in parking lots and roads when it rains. See those dirty snow piles in parking lots and the sides of the road from the snow plows? Yep, the plows collect all the gold dropped during the winter and pile it up for you. Walmart and shopping mall lots are a gold mine in early spring. With all these rains the gutters are filling up. Yep, we are a “No Gold” state because we build our house foundations and streets and roads with it. Lol 😂

Thanks Aurora and thanks for watching.

Thank you Aurora and thanks for watching.

Thanks Aurora and thanks for watching. This walking cane puts me in the best spot for gold every time. Cuts way down on working unproductive dirt.

Hi Sergii and thank you for watching. I will certainly try to do better with my next videos. I have people watching from many different countries and the woods I use aren’t available to them so I suggest they use what ever is available to them. For all my projects I use cheap Cedar fence boards which is the red wood and cheap pine for the lighter colored wood. I build many of these projects and so the cheaper wood is more affordable for me. The glue I use is Tightbond III waterproof glue which should be available in many parts of the world. The Helmsman Spar Varnish may be harder to find but any waterproofing varnish made for waterproofing boats will work. The Silicone is GE type 1 clear 100% Silicone. The 100% Silicone is the most important. Any dish soap will work as a release agent. I hope this will help.

@@utahavalanch Thank you very much for your video and for your answer. It will help me a lot. Good luck and blessings to you in all your endeavors!

@@sergiitkachenko8976 thank you.👍

Hi Marty and thanks for watching. I’ve spent 15 years trying to find the best design for a Miller Table as they are my favorite prospecting tool. They really do a great job of catching the gold. You can make it to any size that fits your needs. I have a variety of sizes but my favorite size is: Base Board: 9” to 10” wide x 18” long. I like to use 5/8” cedar fence board to reduce weight. Glue several pieces together for width. Head board: 10” x 2”. I use 2 pieces of 2 x 3 pine furring strips for the header board cut down to about 2”high. 1 sitting on top of baseboard and 1 sitting behind it. Glue together. Trim to 2” high. Makes a good water seal. Top Deck: leave a 3” space from the header board to the edge of the top deck for the Deep Well. Make deck 10” wide x to the end of the base board. 3/4” pine. The Deep well smooths the water flow so turbulence doesn’t carry fine gold out of the sluice. Side rails 2” high to go from header to end of sluice. You can cut them even with end of sluice or let them extend out for several inches for looks. If you saw my later videos, I have a combination Miller Table and sluice that is very popular around the world right now. You can run higher water levels and run more dirt and catch the gold in a mat and then slow the water level way down and run the cons from the mat over the Miller deck to separate the finer gold from the black sand. If you run as a sluice, the gold sticks to the Miller deck for a short time so you can tell if there is any gold in it. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Hi Truman and thanks for watching. I build and test many different pieces of prospecting equipment. This is just one of many tests I do on all of them and I thought some folks might be interested in it. This is my medium size gold test where I use a variety of different sizes of lead and gold. I do tests changing the water flow and angle of the sluice. Then I will run the tests all over again with very fine gold to see how it reacts with this design. At the end of each run I very carefully pan the tailings to see if there are any losses. Thus I can fine tune the design to run at its highest efficiency. I can swap out the riffles for different shape and I sized ones. I also do these tests with all the different sluice mats I’m interested in and I can make different designed mats no one else makes and test them. I take videos on each run so I can watch the action more closely over and over. This helps me go back later on to refresh my memory on how well a certain design worked. These tests have really been helpful to me to see how different sizes of gold react to different design changes so I can build more efficient equipment. Sometimes a small change can make a very large effect on how gold is caught.

Hi Tbowie and thanks for watching. Most people don’t realize that there is gold all around us. Back a few years ago when glaciers moved down from Canada and covered most of the US in ice, they brought gold with them and deposited it when they melted. So Gold can be found most anywhere. Most of it is very fine so if you learn how to pan very fine gold, you will be able to recover it. I live in what is considered a no gold state but myself and a few others find a considerable amount of gold every year just Urban prospecting. You live in a gold state so you should be able to find it most anywhere. Yup, the roads are covered with pea gravel that came from a river or gravel pit that has gold in it. When the road wears down, the gold will be washed to the side. Also off-roaders, construction workers and cars driving on muddy dirt roads pick up gold in the mud that sticks to their cars. When it rains, it gets washed off onto the roads and parking lots. Look for low spots in parking lots that collect sand during a rain storm. Especially around storm drains. We had a heavy winter and the snow plows scraped the parking lots and piled up the snow in nice big piles for us. When they melt, we will have a nice pile of dirt to mine. Our Wallmart stores are always good for several grams of gold. So test dirt from everywhere. You will be surprised at the unusual places you will find it.

Hi Girish and thanks for watching. I use rare earth magnets with the highest power I can get. Usually a 52 rating if I can get it. I buy them the same diameter as the inside of the PVC pipe. You can buy the magnets on Ebay or sometimes hardware stores.

Hi John and thanks for watching. The paint is Rustoleum Chalkboard paint. You can buy it in a quart can and have it tinted to the color you want and it also comes in a black spray can. Gold likes to stick to it and so it makes a great surface for a Miller Table or places where you want to slow gold down like in this unit so the gold goes into the top riffle. If you slow the water way down, the deck of this can be used as a Miller Table as well to make it easy to separate the gold from the black sand.

Thank you. And thanks for watching. Happy memories.

Hi and thanks for watching. I made the top deck out of 3/4” pine so the well is 3/4” deep. The angle on the top of the deck is 45 degrees. You can also cut a 45 degree angle on the bottom of the deck or just round off the bottom corner of it buy about 1/4”. The angle makes quite a bit of difference on how it catches the gold. The angle on this unit has a 45 degree cut on it and it channels the gold down the angle and into the to riffle of the mat. Too much water flow can blow out the gold. On this type mat, If you adjust the flow properly for the size gold you have, it will blow everything else out and leave mostly nice clean gold like in the video. If you just round over the bottom edge of the top deck, the gold and dirt will get caught in the top riffle and stay there. There is less chance on getting the gold blown out this way. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Best of luck.